By: Zee van Zyl
If you are planning to climb this route I suggest you get up really early or be prepared to wait in the queue which will invariably start to form in the morning and continue for the rest of the day.
The Grack is a spectacular 5-star route on the east side of the Apron which is situated below Glacier point in Yosemite valley. First climbed in 1967 by Bill Sorenson and Jack Delk, this is a 152m Trad route that is normally climbed in three pitches.
I suggested to Steve that we do a climb on the south side of the valley for a change, and the Apron seemed a logical choice. This feature can be seen from most places in the Yosemite valley and it has drawn my gaze every day, screaming to be climbed. I chose the wall and so Steve then chose the climb.
Heading out in the morning, we tried in vain to find parking at the closest parking area. This was full, and so was the one before it, as was the road toward Curry Village. All these cars were for people coming to hike on the Mist and Muir trails leading to Half Dome. We finally parked the cars and had an extended hike to the Apron. The approach was relatively easy, but upon arrival, we noticed two parties on the route and one group of three waiting for their turn. We decided to relax in the shade and wait for our turn when suddenly more groups started arriving. The sun was quite warm so we were content to sit in the shade and chat while we waited for the route to clear. Two hours later, we were still waiting. Eventually, we geared up and got ready for the climb.
One of the climbers we had been chatting to, Paul Bakker from the Netherlands, told us that the route could be climbed in two pitches with a 70m rope. Just our luck that we had one, so we decided to give it a try.
Steve led off on the first pitch and, without rushing, quickly reached the end of the rope. There are no bolts on this route, except for the top anchors, so he popped a few cams and nuts in the crack and put me on belay. This climb is at an easy angle and has a wonderful crack snaking up the granite slope after a bit of a blocky start. I quickly joined him and once we transferred the gear to my harness I set off for the top. I enjoyed this climb so much that before I knew it, I was at the end of the crack. The final 5m is an unprotected slab, but a few friction moves later and I was at the anchors. I belayed Steve up to me and for a few minutes, we sat down and enjoyed the view.
We descended down the rap route specifically bolted to allow for a direct abseil that does not interfere with those climbing the route. It creates an efficient and continuous stream of climbers on the face, climbing on one side and descending on the other. I had a bit of a chat with Paul while he was halfway up the climb and I was waiting for Steve to join me halfway down the face.
A few rope lengths later and we were at the base, amazed that there were still a few groups waiting to climb while more were arriving, but now we understood why it was so popular.
I hate queues, but I am so glad I waited for this one...
To watch the video of the climb, click the link below...
Your writing is really lovely and engaging. Always look forward to reading where you've been and what you've seen and experienced 😊